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It is strange being an expat. That which was once familiar I can hardly
find a trace of in my new country. Sights, smells, sounds. I did not
think that hearing a different language on a day to day basis would
surprise me so. Everything is very bright here. Certainly Australia has
a similar brightness, the harsh white light shining on bright green
grass and the white trunks of the eucalypts. The light here is different
though. It’s… yellower, if that makes sense. Incandescent. Everything
shimmers in the heat haze – turning the horizon indistinct.
I do not regret coming here. Many would say that apart from
Israel, Egypt is the most Westernised country in the Middle East. I
would disagree. Certainly the planeloads of tourists affirm this; but
they are visitors. They do not live here and I do not think they
influence the local culture. The locals were friendlier to me once I
explained I wasn’t an American, and I have developed a strong
friendship with Haddar, the grocer who lives near my apartment.
He sells delicious produce, his stall packed with bright fruits and
vegetables, some familiar, some not, in every shade from green to
purple to yellow.
I have been here for a year now. I am working at the University of
Cairo until the end of next year when my visa expires. I’m planning
on applying for another so I can complete my fourth year here as
well and then go back to Australia to complete my
P
h
D
. The
organisation I have been communicating with and in the past year
working for is called Women Walking Free. The name alludes to the
goal of the organisation; to further the status of women so that they
can walk through life free from harassment and oppression. A place
where only women are allowed to go, where they can be informed of
their choices regarding education, health, legal rights and have the
support of their fellow women. At the moment my job is to inform
young women of their educational rights and to support them
through secondary and hopefully tertiary study. I have an assistant
named Mari, who is a lawyer and well-versed in the realistic
opportunities women in Egypt have. Initially, I had one to two girls
come and see me in the first four months, none in the first month
itself, as
WWF
is very new and different even in Cairo. It’s the
equivalent of a not-for-profit organisation so whilst the government
keeps an eye on us and occasionally gives us ‘suggestions’ on what we
do, mostly we are left alone. The ‘women-only’ policy helps as there
aren’t many women in politics so they can’t come and physically
Incandescent
Sarah Heywood
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